Author and historian David Howell owner of Kokoda Historical was selected to take the Australian Prime Minister The Hon. Anthony Albanese and the Prime Minister of Papua New Guinea, The Hon. James Marape from Kokoda to Isurava for the Official Anzac Day Dawn Service in April 2024.

The two Prime Ministers were accompanied by the Governor of the Oro Province the Hon. Gary Juffa, along with the Australian High Commissioner His Excellency Mr John Feakes and the Australian Defence Advisor, Colonel Travis Gordon. Together they made up the official party. On arrival at Kokoda, all were given a tractional tribal welcome and amid all the chanting and drumming from the people of the Hunjara tribe, the Australian Prime Minister was presented with a ceremonial headdress made from the beak of a hornbill bird.

A multitude of people who had descended out of the mountains from far and wide, lined the streets of Kokoda waving the Australian and PNG flags and followed Mr Albanese and Mr Marape from the airstrip to Kokoda Station.

On arrival the two Prime Ministers addressed the crowd, in doing so they both emphasised that the purpose for the trek was to acknowledge the shared history of Australia and PNG and to embody the friendship of two nations while promoting peace in the region.

"In forging a relationship between brothers and sisters, together as one, we will go forward," Mr Albanese said to the crowd gathered at Kokoda Village.

Mr Marape praised Mr Albanese for raising the idea of walking part of the track.

"Our shared journey today should send a message to the world: We do not want war. We do not want destruction of the environment," he said.

Trek leader David Howell led the official party to the Kokoda Track Authority (KTA) Rangers where the official party and entourage had their packs weighed and trekking permit checked. David Howell and his team from Kokoda Historical, then briefed the official party on the trek ahead.

The trek itself involved two full days of walking over 16-kilometres. For anyone who has undertaken a Kokoda trek, they would know that the climb from Kokoda up to Isurava Battlefield is a tough and arduous trek especially for those who not long arrived in country from Australia.

As Mr Albanese and Mr Marape marched up and down the mountains and valleys, both gained a greater appreciation of what the harsh conditions for soldier and carrier alike went through during 1942. Historian David Howell brought to life the stories of both the Papuan Infantry Battalion (PIB), the Fuzzy Wuzzy Angels and the Australian infantry soldiers who fought against a various enemy against great odds.

For most of the journey the two Prime Ministers walked side by side stopping at the various villagers along the way and talking to the local people. School children laughed and giggled as they walked along side the official party. The first overnight stay was at the picturesque campsite of Deniki with magnificent views overlooking the Kokoda Plateau

An early start on 24 April, found the trek making the steep climb up to Isurava Village before meeting media teams coming in the opposite direction from the Isurava Memorial. Special mention should be made to the Kokoda Historical guides and porters (known as the Green Masin) who worked tirelessly to ensure the trek ran without incident. 

Arriving at the Isurava Battlefield and memorial site, the Prime Minister were with hundreds of other trekkers, who had descended on Isurava to attend the Official Dawn Service. The sacred ground which some 82 years earlier, witnessed an intense six-day period of fighting by Australian and Papuan infantry against Japanese soldiers trying to capture Port Moresby in the Second World War.

The following morning 25 April, Anzac Day, David Howell and his team assisted the Prime Ministers and their entourage down to the four pillars. As the sun rose above the Eora Valley, both Prime Ministers delivered official speeches, wreaths were laid and a minute silence was observed. The bonds of our two countries remembered once more.

On reflection of the trek, the Australian Prime Minister said:

As an Australian, there are few experiences more humbling than to walk the Kokoda Track.

To be in the place where Australians and Papua New Guineans faced a merciless invader and fought for the same thing: home.

This week I had the privilege of walking in the footsteps of those giants, and to do it in the spirit of friendship that was forged between our two peoples in those darkest of days.

Joined by Papua New Guinean Prime Minister James Marape, it was a trek like no other.

Starting at Kokoda itself, the welcome our party received at each village was so warm and uplifting.

During our relatively short journey it was a pleasure to meet many Australians walking the entire Track in what has become an Aussie pilgrimage in memory and respect.

It is beautiful but challenging country, yet every step along the way I reflected on how easy our group had it.

Like so many Australians who have trod that sacred ground, I tried to imagine what it might have been like knowing there was a chance that any of those majestic trees might be hiding a sniper, or that every bed of long grass might reveal a terrible, sudden flash of bayonet.

In 1942, in a place that now feels like paradise, 625 Australians were killed.

That is the great weight of history you feel on the Kokoda Track, that great artery of mud and suffering and perseverance that holds a place of such power in Australia’s shared memory – and PNG’s.

So many Papua New Guineans helped Australians – troops, coast watchers, shipping pilots, nurses and carers.

Villagers who risked their lives. Stretcher bearers whose courage was matched only by their kindness.

They were angels walking tall through the hell of war.

Together with our extraordinary soldiers, they cemented the powerful bond and friendship between Australia and Papua New Guinea that lasts to this day.

All this was on my mind when we reached Isurava, the scene of the battle that claimed the lives of 99 Australians and wounded another 111.

What a solemn privilege it was to join all the Australians and Papua New Guineans on that hallowed ground for the Anzac Day dawn service and utter the words: “Lest we forget.”

I will always treasure my time in PNG, from the friendship of Prime Minister Marape, who kept his promise to walk with me every step of the way, to the kind attention of every one of the porters who made it all possible.

Not least Bela, who looked after me; I could not have done it without him.

PNG is our nearest of neighbours and our closest of friends.

After this week, I am more confident than ever we will keep walking together side by side towards a better future.